7 min read

Glycation builds slowly over decades, and the collagen it stiffens takes years to replace, which means the habits that slow it now shape how your skin looks in ten years. Most of what helps is steady daily protection rather than a special cream.

The short answer

Glycation is a slow chemical reaction in which sugar attaches to the collagen and elastin in your skin and forms compounds called advanced glycation end products, or AGEs. AGEs stiffen those fibers and give skin a yellowish tone, and they build up faster with sun and with high blood sugar. What helps most is protecting the collagen you have with daily sunscreen and antioxidants, supporting new collagen with retinoids and peptides, and keeping your blood sugar steady.

Read time 7 min
Suits All skin types, Mature

What glycation is

Collagen and elastin are the protein fibers that give your skin its firmness and spring. Glycation is a slow reaction in which sugar molecules in your body attach to proteins like these, without any enzyme directing them. Over time, those attachments change into stable compounds called advanced glycation end products, or AGEs.

AGEs join neighboring collagen fibers to each other. Fibers that should be able to move and stretch become stiff and brittle, and they are harder for your skin to break down and replace.

Glycation is part of aging, and it happens in everyone. Your body has its own systems for clearing AGEs, and those systems work more slowly with age.

What glycation does to your skin

Less bounce. Linked collagen and elastin cannot stretch and spring back the way they did, which shows as skin that is less springy and slower to recover after it is pressed or creased.

A yellowish tone. Some AGEs are yellow-brown, and as they build up they can give the complexion a sallow, yellowish cast.

More inflammation. AGEs also set off inflammation in the skin. Inflammation is one of the root causes of aging skin, and it wears on the cells that make new collagen.

Collagen in your skin turns over very slowly. One study estimated its half-life at about 15 years, which means a glycated fiber can stay in place for a long time. This is worth knowing, because it means a collagen fiber you protect from sun and glycation today is likely to still be in your skin many years from now.

What speeds glycation up

Sun. UV light speeds up the formation of AGEs. A study that compared sun-exposed and sun-protected skin in the same people found more AGEs in the sun-exposed skin, and AGE levels rose with age at both sites.

High blood sugar. The more sugar there is in your blood, the more is available to attach to proteins. This is why people with diabetes build up AGEs faster, including in their skin.

Smoking and some cooking methods. Smoking speeds up the formation of AGEs and their build-up in tissues, including skin. Food that is fried or cooked with dry, high heat, such as grilling, contains far more ready-made AGEs than boiled or steamed food, and your body absorbs some of them.

Glycation or something else?

Glycation shows as a gradual yellowish or sallow tone and skin that has lost its spring, usually alongside other signs of aging.

Dullness comes from dead skin cells sitting unevenly on the surface and scattering light, and it improves within weeks of gentle exfoliation.

Sagging and lines come mostly from collagen loss, sun and the changes beneath the skin that come with age. Glycation contributes, and it is one part of a bigger picture.

Diagram comparing loose, wavy collagen fibers with fibers that are yellowed, stiff and joined together by sugar links.
Once sugar links neighboring fibers, collagen can no longer stretch and spring back, and it takes on a yellowish tone.

How to slow glycation

Research on creams designed to reverse glycation is still thin, which is why most of what helps works by protecting the collagen you have and supporting new collagen. These are the ingredients we suggest, and each has its own article in the Ingredients that help section below.

Wear sunscreen every day

Because UV speeds up glycation, daily sunscreen is the most dependable step. Wear broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning, and reapply it throughout the day.

Add antioxidants

Glycation and the damage from free radicals, unstable molecules made by sun and everyday metabolism, feed each other. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals and help protect collagen from further damage.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant, and your skin also needs it to make collagen, which makes it useful on both sides of the problem.

Niacinamide has been studied for yellowing, one of the visible signs linked to glycation. In a 12-week study, the side of the face that received five percent niacinamide showed less yellowing than the side that received moisturizer alone.

Glutathione is one of the antioxidants your skin makes itself, and applied topically it adds to that defense.

NAD+ supports the systems skin cells use for energy and repair, which slow down with age. The research on it in skincare is still early.

Support new collagen

Glycated collagen is replaced slowly, and ingredients that encourage new collagen help your skin replace it.

Retinoids speed up cell turnover and prompt your skin to make new collagen, and they are among the most studied ingredients for aging skin.

Peptides act as signals that encourage your skin to make more collagen.

Look at what you eat

What you eat does affect glycation in your body. Steady blood sugar means less sugar available to attach to proteins, and steaming, poaching and stewing produce fewer AGEs in food than grilling or frying. What is not yet known is how much a change in diet changes the AGEs already in your skin, since skin collagen turns over slowly. Doing both is reasonable: protect your skin topically, and eat in a way that keeps your blood sugar steady. If you have diabetes, or are thinking about a big change in diet or a supplement, speak to your doctor first.

Diagram of three icons: a shield with a sun for sunscreen, a droplet for antioxidants, and new fibers growing for new collagen.
Daily sunscreen and antioxidants slow new glycation, while retinoids and peptides help your skin replace stiffened collagen.

Common questions

Can glycation be reversed?

Partly, and slowly. AGEs already bound to collagen are hard to remove, and they leave as that collagen is gradually replaced. Supporting new collagen and protecting it from sun and further glycation is how skin improves over time.

Do anti-glycation creams work?

Not clearly, yet. Several ingredients slow glycation in the lab, but there are very few studies in people, and none long enough to show that a cream removes AGEs already in the skin. That does not mean these creams do nothing, since many also contain antioxidants that help in other ways. It means daily sunscreen and antioxidants are the more dependable place to put your effort.

How long before I see a difference?

Most people notice a more even, brighter tone after eight to twelve weeks of daily sunscreen and antioxidants. Changes in bounce and firmness take longer, often three to six months with a retinoid or peptides, because new collagen builds slowly.

Around week eight is where people tend to give up, because tone has improved and firmness has not yet. Keep going without changing anything. The photo routine in the How to use it section below makes slow progress easier to see.

Can I use these ingredients during pregnancy?

Yes, most of them. Vitamin C and niacinamide are generally considered safe in pregnancy. Most retinoids are avoided. Other ingredients depend on your doctor's advice and your own preference, so check with your OB or midwife.

How to use it

  • Wear broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning, and reapply it throughout the day.
  • Apply an antioxidant serum, such as vitamin C, in the morning before your sunscreen.
  • Add a retinoid or a peptide serum in the evening, starting a retinoid two or three nights a week.
  • Introduce one new product at a time, and give each one two weeks before adding the next.
  • Photograph your skin on day one, in the same spot and in natural daylight, and again every four weeks.
Start with the basics Skin Aging 101: The Signs of Aging and How to Manage Them With Skincare
Evidence and sources
  • Gkogkolou P, BΓΆhm M. Advanced glycation end products: Key players in skin aging? Dermato-Endocrinology, 2012. What AGEs are, how they stiffen collagen and set off inflammation, and the roles of sun, blood sugar, smoking and diet. Read the review
  • Verzijl N, DeGroot J, Thorpe SR, et al. Effect of Collagen Turnover on the Accumulation of Advanced Glycation End Products. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 2000. The estimate that skin collagen has a half-life of about 15 years. Read the study
  • Crisan M, Taulescu M, Crisan D, et al. Expression of Advanced Glycation End-Products on Sun-Exposed and Non-Exposed Cutaneous Sites during the Ageing Process in Humans. PLOS ONE, 2013. The comparison of AGEs in sun-exposed and sun-protected skin. Read the study
  • Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2004. The 12-week split-face niacinamide study described above. Read the study

A note on the evidence. How glycation affects collagen is well described in laboratory work and in studies of skin samples. Research on what reverses it in living skin is limited. The link between AGEs and a yellowish tone comes from smaller studies of skin color and is not yet proven. The sun study was small, with 32 people. The niacinamide study had 50 participants, was run by a skincare manufacturer, and measured yellowing rather than AGEs directly. That does not mean niacinamide does not help with glycation; it means the link is possible rather than proven. What we describe here combines that research with what we see in the clinic.

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